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this video is brought to you by sailrite.in this video we will walk you through the steps required to make your very own romanshades. we’re going to show you how to take measurements, how to sew them up, how to attachrings and hardware and how to install them in your window. a full materials list is locatedat the end of the video so you can purchase fabric and supplies to do it yourself. let’sget started and show you how it’s done. we will start by discussing our design andmeasuring the window. hi i’m eric grant with sailrite. today weregoing to show you how to install a roman shade on a few windows. were going to install thisroman shade as an outside mount. which means we will be mounting it on the outside of thewindow frame here. so, the first thing you

need to do when you are making a roman shadeis take some measurements. you basically need a height measurement or length measurementsand you need a width measurement. the measurements are basically dependent on how or what orwhat you want the roman shade to cover. since ours is an outside mount, going to be mountedup here. and we are going to be using a blackout fabric as the lining for this window. we wantto block out as much light as possible, but yet we still want to see some of the oak trim.notice the shade on the left using blackout drapery fabric blocks light entirely, whilethe shades on the right allows some light to filter through the fabric.so were going to basically measure approximately there, this is up to preference. obviouslythere on this side as well. we’re going

to mount the headrail up about this far. thenwhen the roman shade comes down we want it to stop without touching this sill down here.so right above the sill. so to do that lets take some measurements. first, let’s getthe length measurement. our headrail will be installed at the top, approximately there.we measure down just right above the sill. and then for the width, since this is goingto be an outside mount were going to measure a little inside the window trim. to this sideand were going to write those measurements down.we’re going to leave this roller shade on the window and still mount our roman shadeup there, that’s one of the reasons we are doing an outside mount on this window. thiswe can use either the roman shade or we can

pull this shade down. this shad obviouslylets light to defuse thru it. the roman shade since we are going to use the blackout fabricwill make it totally dark. except obviously some light will come through the sides andat the bottom. so, we are going to leave the roller shade one and get to work.before we get started making the actual shade, we want to show you two sets of shades thathave already been completed in this the same room. these two shades are mounted using aninside mount system. they are not mounted on the outside of the window frame as ourprevious one was. they are mounted on the inside, let me climb up here and show youa little more about that. let’s remove this decorative fabric to geta view of our headrail underneath on this

inside mount window. here you can see theheadrail and we screwed directly through the front of the headrail into some wood trim.you can also use a drill and drill underneath the headrail through the board and into thewood trim on the ceiling if you are mounting in that direction. if you are screwing throughdry wall we recommend using dry wall anchors. so, that is how we install this headrail onan inside mount system. let’s go ahead and put the decorative fabric back up via thevelcro. on this window we have a roller that opensthe window. so where do we want the roman shade to stop? again it is totally up to preferencefor the end user. in our situation we have designed it to stop basically midway or alittle on the lower portion of the roller.

so if the roller is positioned as it is herethe roman shade will come and fall right in front of it. if the roller is positioned herethen the shade is going to fall here and it will be a little bit slack. so let’s lowerthe roman shade and show you what it is like at this positon and also show you what itis like at that position. let’s start here. that looks pretty good! now let position itin slightly a different location and see what happens. as i talked about, it is a littlebit on top, not the optimal position, but it still works fine.after considering the design and taking measurements it’s now time to show you how to make theshade. let’s start with patterning. the first step in creating a roman shade isthe cut the fabric to size. we’re going

to take the measurements we just took fromthe window and calculate what size fabric we need to cut for the decorative fabric andalso for the lining fabric. if you have multiple shades and the decorative fabric has a patternyou may want to take into consideration where the pattern repeat will fall. sometimes therepeat looks best directly across from adjacent panels as it is seen here, it is always upto your preference, and is not the rule. we have made the calculations for our windowand are figuring where we want the pattern repeat to fall for our shades. for us thisyellow flower will be the center of our shade. we will mark the fabric to size and cut itout with scissors. cutting with scissors is acceptable, but using a rotary fabric cuttermakes a cleaner cut. so, we will switch to

that tool next. when using a rotary cutteryou must use a self-healing cutting mat to help prolong the life of the blade.here angela is marking the opposite side of the fabric to the width size we calculatedfor earlier. then she strikes a line at the appropriate spot on the decorative fabric.after the line is struck down the length of the fabric, she will rotate the fabric aroundso she can more easily reach the cut line to cut it out.since we are making two shades for our window application, we have a length that accommodatesfor two shades and also takes into consideration the pattern repeat of our decorative fabric.now the decorative fabric is cut to size for our width measurement. next we will take measurementsfor the length or height of the shades taking

into consideration the added amount of 8 inchesin our previous calculations. strike a line at that location on the fabric and cut.as discussed earlier we have decided to match up our pattern so it is directly across fromeach other for our two shades. you may want to stager the pattern or it just might lookgood anywhere, floral patterns often look good almost anywhere when more than one shadeis required. here we are laying our first decorative panelcut to the correct width and length on top of the remainder of fabric to match up thepattern. then we will mark it to size and cut it out in the same manner. since we arematching up the pattern we have some waist at the bottom of this length of fabric. butthat can be used to wrap the head board or

possibly decorative pillows. our two decorativepanels are cut to size, next up the lining fabric.we will cut the lining fabric to the same length or height measurement of our decorativefabric we just cut, that was the finished height plus 8 inches. however the width ofthis lining fabric should be the finished width minus 1 inch (which is smaller thanthe decorative fabric we just cut). sailrite stocks a couple of choices for a soft andvery light lining fabric, we are using softline drapery lining fabric here. however, if youwant to block the sun from shining thru the fabric shades all together then we suggestyou use the softline suite blackout drapery fabric sold at www.sailrite.com. in fact,it is my personal favorite for roman shades

because it is a slightly heavier lining fabricwhich make construction a little easier. why? because it lays flatter when fabricating andwhen completed provides for a smoother working roman shade operation the shade seldom wrinklesabove the folded pleats when being pulled up due to the heavier weighted lining fabric.this shade is made with softline drapery lining fabric, you will notice that at the pleatsit sometimes want to wrinkle as it is being raised because the fabric is so soft and lightbodied. we believe that the desired look is more important. so, pick the lining fabricto suite your most important requirements, blocking the sun or allowing light ambianceto filter through the fabric. our decorative fabric and lining fabric hasbeen cut to size. let’s start sewing.

here we are showing the lighter drapery liningfabric in white laying on top of our decorative fabric, as you can see the height is equalbut the width is much smaller. outside surfaces are facing each other, this lining fabricdoes not have a right or wrong side, but other brands of lining or blackout fabrics may.we are going to match up one of the long edges so the raw edge is flush and we will sew arow of straight stitches about a â½ inch from the raw edge. do some reversing to lock thestitch in place at the beginning and end of your sewing.we like to use the deluxe magnetic sewing guide to help guide the fabric as we sew it,this helps keep the stitch line consistently spaced from the raw edge of the fabric. ifyou do not have this guide you can also just

place masking tape on the bed of your sewingmachine to help you guide the fabric. we are sewing this shade with the sailrite ultrafeedls-1 sewing machine. this is a heavy duty walking foot sewing machine that will alsoso lighter fabrics like this. a standard home sewing machine easily sew this type of projectas well. angela did not pin the fabric in place, butthat may be helpful to keep the edges lined up for you.next match up the opposite long side of the decorative fabric and lining and repeat theprocess. now we want to center the lining or blackoutdrapery fabric (if you used that) on the backside of our shade at the bottom edge. do not yetturn it right side out. a slight warning here,

if you worked hard to match up a pattern repeatyou must be certain you are working at the bottom edge and not the top edge of the shade.to ensure that it is centered we will measure the folds at the sides to be sure they arethe same and then we will use straight pins to hold it at the bottom edge.be sure the fabrics are lying flat before sewing. you can pin the bottom edge if youlike to help hold everything in place. then take it to the sewing machine and sew a â½â€from the raw edge here at the bottom. notice that when she stops sewing to adjust the fabricangela will bury the needle by hand using the sewing machine’s balance wheel, so shedoes not lose her last sewing position. now we can turn the assembly right side out,the assembly now takes the form of a pillow

case. the corners may be rather stubborn toturn right side out completely. you can use a straight pin to help motivate them if needed.it’s time to center the lining fabric on the backside of the roman shade. use youryardstick and straight pins to consistently line up the decorative face fabric’s edgeson the backside of the shade. be sure everything is lying flat as you measure and pin the sides.we are pining through to catch the decorative fabric on the bottom side as well.after it is pined securely in place use an iron to press the fabric along that foldedsides. if the pins come out when ironing that is ok, they are simply used to insure thesides are even, after the ironing is done, they will be remove anyway.at the bottom edge it is a good idea to press

the fabric along that edge also. before doingthat ensure that the seam is splayed out. ironing the entire shade to ensure it is flatis a good idea, especially if using a lighter lining fabric on the backside. be sure tofollow the fabric manufactures recommendations for ironing for your particular fabric.at the bottom edge of the shade a hem / sleeve must be created to hold the bottom weightedbar. this sleeve should be about 2 to 3 inches in size. before sewing this sleeve in placeit is always a good idea to check to be sure that your desired finished height, plus atleast a â½ inch of extra fabric (for a hem at the top of the shade) can be achieved.sometimes sewing and ironing can change the over size of the shade slightly, if so youcan make modifications to the size of the

sleeve to accommodate a sudden change in sizeif needed. once that sleeve or hem is determined youcan pin or iron it in place. always ensure that it is straight and true before sewingit in place. then sew a single row of straight stitches alone the inside edge about an 1/8inch or so from the edge, as shown in the video.to help keep the bottom rod or weighted bar inside the sleeve. sew a bar tack stitch upfrom the bottom edge on the sides. sew up about 1 inch or slightly more, but leave roomto slide the bar inside the sleeve. roman shades often have ribs or dowels thatare spaced along the height of the shade to help the fabric pleat or fold as it is pulledup. to calculate for the placement of these

ribs we will use sailrite’s fabric calculator.visit www.sailrite.com and type “fabric calculator” into the search. click on “windowtreatments” then select “roman shades”. simply type your desired finished width andheight measurements into these appropriate fields. enter the quantity of shades desired,let’s start with just one. enter the decorative fabric’s width you have selected to use.if the fabrics pattern repeat placement is important to you enter the vertical repeatof the fabric here (used for multiple shades only). the horizontal repeat is seldom usedfor shades, so we will leave it at zero. click on the “calculate” button. instantlysee how much fabric you need. you will also see the correct location for rib or dowelplacement along the length of the shade. plus

you will see the recommended amount of liftlines and the length of lift line required. scroll down a little more and you will seea rendering showing the shade with dash lines for ribs and circles for rings.let’s change the quantity to two and see what happens. the amount of decorative fabrichas increased, and since we entered a value for a vertical repeat into the calculatorit automatically determined how much extra fabric will needed. scroll down the screenand notice the rendering has also changed showing two panels with scrap fabric in-between.now that is easy! in lieu of using the sailrite fabric calculator(which i highly recommend), let’s calculate the requirements for our roman shade withthese equations manually.

in this illustration you can see a roman shadedetailing where the lowest and highest segments are and also the main segments. this illustrationshows 9 segments and 8 ribs or dowels. so, after using the sailrite fabric calculatoror figuring the placement of the ribs manually we are now ready to mark the location of eachrib on our shade. starting from the bottom of the shade and measuring up from the finishededge we will mark for the lowest segment with a pencil. then up from that mark we will markfor each main segment this shade has 9 segments so, it will have 7 main segments.once it is marked on one side fold it in half and carefully line up the edges to make theopposite side. unfold the shade and use a yardstick or straightedge and strike a very light pencil mark across

the shade at each of those locations. be surethe fabric is flat and no wrinkles are present when marking each section.for this roman shade we are going to use iron-on roman rib tape and we will secure it on thebackside of our shade. another option is to use wooden dowels and to glue them to theinside of the shade, between the decorative fabric and the lining fabric. that techniqueworks well for roman shades, but it does not allow you to remove the dowels and wash theshade if it becomes dirty. so, we have opted to use iron-on roman rib tape available atwww.sailrite.com so the ribs can be removed for washing if required.angela has cut the required amount of iron-on roman rib tape to size, equal to the widthof the shade minus about â¾ inch. the iron-on

tape has been placed over the pencil lineso it is centered over the line and so the sides are even (slightly off from each edge).the side with the glue on it is facing the shade. using a steam iron on a high settingand go over the entire length of the iron-on tape until it is secured well to the shadefabric. repeat the procedure for each rib location.here you can see this roman shad with all the iron-on roman rib tape secured. here isa second shade we are making using the same decorative fabric, but for the lining we areusing the softline suite blackout drapery fabric instead. the iron-on roman rib tapehere is the neutral color, it too bonds well to this the acrylic side of the lining italso sticks to the polyester side which is

on the inside of this shade.we will now turn our attention to finishing the top edge of the shade. to do this letsconfirm the desired finished length by measuring from the bottom edge up. remember that weadded extra fabric to the length of our cut panel for the bottom sleeve, slight shrinkagewhich may occur and for a small hem at the top. we want to now trim the top so that weonly have about a half inch of extra fabric at the top to create a single hem at thatlocation. here we are trimming away the extra fabricwith our rotary cutter and cutting mat. a length of looped velcro 1 inch has beencut to the finished width of the shade and now we will create a half inch hem at thetop edge and sew the velcro in place over

the top of the hem at the same time. if youfind it helpful you can use straight pins or seamstick to secure the hem and velcroin place prior to sewing. here angela is not doing that. sew a second row of stitch alongthe bottom edge of the velcro as well. next we need to make a headrail for the shade.the board need not be fancy, the size of the board is not curtail, except that the sidethat the cord lock is to be affixed should be about 1” think. our board is finishedat about 1” x 2”. we need to cut it so it is the same length as the width of thefinished shade. you can wrap the board with your decorativefabric or the lining fabric. simply cut it oversized to wrap around the board on allsides. then staple in place. we are using

the duo-fast eic-3118 electric stapler, availableat sailrite, but a simple lever action arrow brand will work as well.over the fabric wrap, on the side which has the seam, secure along the side a 1 inch hookedvelcro the same length as the board. staple it in place along the top edge.rings are typically started on the first rib at the bottom, skip every other rib to thetop, as shown in this illustration. rings are usually spaced from left to right aboutevery 15 to not more than 20 inches apart. to install the sew on rings for shades wewill use a length of thread and a hand needle. sew the ring in place along the top edge ofthe iron-on tape avoiding the pocket opening so a rib can still be inserted in the openingin a later step. insert the needle and push

it through the tape the lining and the decorativefabric and then bring it back through. the rings that run along the sides of the shadeshould be spaced about 2 to 3 inches from the finished edge of the shade. this spacingwill typically keep the lift cords from hanging up on the ends of the ribs when operatingthe shade. be sure the ring is very secure, you do notwant them to come untied after a few months of use and have to re-sew them in place again.sailrite sells metal rings, unlike the plastic rings which often get brittle in the sun andeventually break, ours will not. we will show only one ring being sewn in place on our shade,we will skip forward to the next step. here is what the front of the shade lookslike with the ring sewn in place. you can

barely see the stitch.we will use the roman shade plastic ribs sold by sailrite for our shade, these are easyto cut with a hacksaw or utility scissors. they also can be extended for wider shadesby using splices for plastic ribs again sold by sailrite. they should be cut to the samesize as the length of iron on tape. if you plan on gluing dowels to the shade insteadof using the iron on tape you might have to use wooden dowels as some glues will not stickto these plastic ribs. they can also be extended for wider shades by using splicers for plasticribs, again sold by sailrite. in the bottom sleeve a weighted bottom rodneeds to be inserted to weight the shade and make the cord lock work properly. sailritesells a bottom rod for fabric shades that

is a 3/8” rod. ours needs to be cut downin size to fit, usually it is about 1 inch shorter than the finished width of the shade.it can be cut with a hacksaw, here we are using a band saw to save time. once cut fillany sharp edges. this rod can be extended for larger widthshades by using a rodding splicer which is sold separately at sailrite.to assemble the headrail and lift lines we are going to switch to the roman shade whichwas made with the blackout drapery fabric as the liner. same process, different romanshade. secure the headrail via the velcro so the shade is flush with the top of theboard. move the board with fabric attached down the length of the shade until you reacha row with rings attached. our shade has three

rows for lift cords, yours may be different.mark the location on the bottom lip of the headrail where each ring is located.we will use an awl to pre punch a hole in our pine board for the installation of thescrew eyes. screw eyes can be purchased at a hardware store or even walmart. screw theyeyes onto the bottom lip of the headrail board at each location where you marked a ring falling.then we will use a 5/64” leechline dacron rope as our lift line. each row of rings runningvertically should have its own lift cord. they should be cut to size so it is aboutthe length shade plus the width of the shade. tie the end of the leechline to a ring atthe bottom of the shade and run it vertically up through each ring until you reach the screweye.

the cord lock can be installed on the rightor left side of the shade. we will attach a cord lock on the right side when facingthe front, so here on the underside side it goes on the left side. because of that factall the lift lines will feed towards the left side of the shade (where the cord lock willbe installed in the next step). feed the lines through the rings and then eyes as shown inthe video. the shade is fully extended and the linesare pulled so they are fairly snug. here at the location where the cord lock will be installedwe can cut the lines so they are about 12 inches long.sailrite sells a small and large cord lock, this is the small one. for more informationabout the cord locks visit the sailrite website.

it should be installed as close as possibleto the last screw eye. before installing it on the headrail we will install the linesinto the lock. the cord lock has a hole on one side thatis small and a hole on the other side that is larger. grab the lift line end that ison the side where the cord lock will be installed. then feed the line through the small holethen down from the top through the cam locks and out the bottom. using a pick or tweezersis helpful to grab the end of the line. next insert the lift lines from the opposite sideof the cord lock into the larger hole and repeat the process. angela is feeding twolines into the lock at the same time, that may or may not be as easy as just feedingone line at a time. using tweezers to grab

the line’s end is helpful once the lineor lines passes the cam lock. try to distribute the lines evenly betweenthe wires on the underside of the cord lock. it is ok to have more than one line betweeneach of the small wire opening for larger shades which require more lines. after feedingthe lines through you may want to tie a knot to prevent them from passing through the lockaccidently while we screw the lock in place to the headrail.using two screws (not provided with the cam lock) secure the lock as close to the screweye as possible on the bottom lip of the headrail board.untie the knot, if you made one. next we will install a cord condenser. this condenser doesjust what the name implies it condenses the

multiple cords into one. with the shade beingfully open and the cords being fairly taught cut all the cords at once so about 5 to 6inches below the cord lock. feed the lines through the top of the condenser. be surethe lines are even and tie a knot so the condenser is about 2 inches away from the bottom ofthe cord lock. cut away any extra line past the knot and push the bell shaped condenserover the knot concealing it. now we will insert a length of cord throughthe condenser bottom and tie a knot. use the provided plastic washer if your cord is toosmall to stay in the bell shaped bottom via the knot. then screw this bottom onto thetop of the condenser. if you have not yet done so feed the bottomweighted rod into the sleeve at the bottom.

also feed the ribs through the iron-on-ribtape. a tassel can be installed to the end of thecord it is usually attached so it rests near the middle of the shade when it is fully open.next up we will show you how to install your roman shade. all right we have the roman shademade. and the velcro installed with the headrail behind it. nice thing about the velcro, beforeyou install it you can remove the actual decorative fabric and blackout lining on this one andgain access to the headrail. now, i have already installed screws on the ends were i know itneeds to be screwed up on the window. so we have done that in advance, were ready to installthe roman shade. and notice the fabric it just hangs loosely down below, so all we needto do is attach it to the velcro. so, to do

this, all we need to do is position it wherewe desire it on our frame and screw it in place. then we velcro it up and if it is notstraight we make adjustments to the velcro, another nice feature of the velcro. therewe go! coming up next is the materials list. youcan find almost all the hardware, tools and even the fabric at sailrite. we have hundredsof decorative fabrics that would work great for roman shades. many of our customers askif a sunbrella marine grade or awning grade fabric would work for roman shades. the answeris yes and those sunbrella fabrics typically do not need a lining fabric.to help you determine the quantity of items you need to purchase from sailrite use thesesimple equations. you may want to pause the

video here. next up we will show you the itemsthat may need to be purchased from a hardware store and the tools that may be required todo it yourself. if you have questions or comments about thisvideo please write them in the comments section of this youtube video. we will do our bestto answer them quickly. any questions regarding the products or fabrics sold by sailrite,give us a call, we are more than happy to assist you in purchasing the right productsfor your next diy project. for more free videos like this be sure tocheck out the sailrite website or subscribe to the sailrite youtube channel. it’s yourloyal patronage to sailrite that makes these free videos available, thanks for your loyalsupport! i’m eric grant and from all of

us here at sailrite, thanks for watching!

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