when you first purchase an awning you have everything you need in theawning bag. in the bag there is the following, the actual awning the curtains, the bag the draught skirt, the fixon's, which the poles are attached to, and the instructions. in the frame bag you have the frameand the pegs. a few extra spare pegging rubbersand a peg puller. once you actually laid the carpet down on the floor
to protect your awning when erecting.the next job is to put the wheel arch cover and the draught skirt onto the caravan. now pegging the draught skirt down. the prefect scenario is to put carpet on top of the draught skirt. so if you follow me down here. now we can lay the carpet on the draught skirt i am now placing the poles in the position they need to be.for when i put the awning up, it will be a lot easier.
all the roof poles are identical.the poles are not color-coded. we think it's one of the easiest frames you can put up. if a pole has got a hook on it it has to be a roof pole. the three remaining roof poles are identical. the centre leg is the one with the centre cross on it.on the outside legs the corners are marked left and right so it very very easyto erect. one tip i will give you if i show you downhere.
if you put the cross members in thecenter leg now at this point to make a small letter t. this will make it easier to put up the awningi'll show you later why that is. the next tip i can give you it to spray some aquatex onto the actual awningrail. this actually lubricates the rail and makes it sliding the awning around a loteasier. the whole awning is impregnated with this,so we are not damaging the awning what so ever. now we have to feed the beading into the caravan rail.find the caravan opening
and the channel and start sliding. sometimes you find this job a lot easier if somebody helps guide it through,as someone pulls it around. now we've got the awning on thecaravan and the canvas is centralised evenly on both sides. the next task is toput on the fixon blocks. they go onto the internal rail. these are the fixon's that the roof poles connect to.the fixon's are very easy to fit, we open up the clamp find the awning profile and lock into position.
same procedure for the middle one. we open up the clamp. find the middle of the awning and clamp it onto the profile. the ideal position for the end panel in theroof. if you folded it in half that's roughly where it needs to go.on this particular caravan i am going to raise it little bit furtherup. on the front and the caravan it's the same same position. as it is a 975 it has intermediate roof polesso they go in between the outside and the middleone
now for the tip i suggestedearlier. because i made a letter t with the center leg and the crossmembers. i now put the spike into the eyelet. connect the leg up and now i can work on the rest of the awning. the next pole is the roof pole. we now place a hookinto the fixon. then we connect to the middle poleand we will tension to the max, while its down nice and low. it has a bayonet which fits like a light bulb. into the leg, twist so it can't fall out on your head andnow tension this pole
as much as you can while its at this level. now we're going to move on to the outside legs.either left or right makes no difference. at this point now because i got my legs and roof poles in theright position, all i need to do is bend down an insert the poles. tension slightly. the same procedure
insert the bayonet fitting, twist, and tension we do the same as we did on the left slightly tension. now that the awning is semi erected isthe ideal time now to do the canopy poles outside while it is nice and low, so we can reach and no step is required. first place to start are with the short canopy poles. there are three them. one is slightly longer than the other. the longer one is for the center.
we now place the canopy poles into the centre cross. moving over to the right. ensuring that the clamp is always going tobe away from the canvas. now the same on the left hand side.inserting the pole, again making sure the clamp is going to be away for the canvas.the last two remaining poles on the canopy are the ones that go through the sleeve. at this point do not tension.
the first pole to go over dome shaped first, the second flat edge first. so the two flat ends end up together. then the eyelet here. at this point, you can tension up the middle canopy pole. now the reason we can actuallytension up this pole, it's because the only pole that we tensioned is the middle roof pole. so this can be tensioned because it is against that main roof pole.
the next task is to tension up all the inside poles, before we do that we must make sure that all the zips are fully closed to be able to have the awning in the right position. now we can tension up the rest of the poles.the first part i will start with is the middle leg and we move down to the bottom of the awningwhere the regulator tab is. which is a piece of material with three holes.this regulator tab has three holes. we are on nice level ground so i am gong to use themiddle hole. on all the regulator tabs on this awning.if you're on a pitch that is not level,
it's higher at one end than the otherthen you would actually use all three holes. you use the high hole at one end,the middle in the middle and another one at the other end so you still get the awning nice and straight along the front.the spike of the foot goes into the hole, ensuring that thestraight edge is against the material on theregulator tab. once this is in place, we need to tension up the leg we raise the awning up
and actually stand on the leg itself and tension and lock into position.once you have done the middle leg it's now the outside legs. it makes nodifference whether its left or right it's your choice. again the sameprocedure regulator tab, the shoe onto the regulator tab,spike in the bottom and tension. ensuring that the clamps are always away from thecanvas. the same on the right hand side.
don't be afraid to over tension your awning. the more tension you put upon the better theawning will look. and the longer it will last longer last.the hole that i used on the regulator tab, when take the awning down, the hole i usedwill become oblong shaped because of the tension i put on it.that's the right thing. the more tension the better the awning will look.the next thing is to tension up the other poles.a big tip i can give you before you tension up any awningall your panels have to be zipped in. the trick is is to undo thepanel slightly around the corners.
this releases the canvas and the material and it's a lot easier to tension up this panel now.once that pole has been tensioned zip the panel up and move on to the next panel.unzip the panel to release the pressure. and tension pole. once that's completed, zip the panel up, and do the same on the other tworemaining panels. to make you life easier you could actuallyuse a hercules twin to tension up the poles.
it's an ideal tool and it makes life alot easier when tensioning the framework yourself.let me show you how. we unzip the panel. you placethe hercules onto to the thinner pole.place the arm into the groove of the clamp.release the pole and just push the handle towards the middle and then lock. using the hercules tool on the roof poles,the roof poles are thicker diameter than the rest ofpoles. so the hercules twin fits
these poles, but a slight modification hasto be done on the tool. pushing off the bottom rubber turning the red block around, i'mpushing the rubber back onto the red block which isgiving me a bigger diameter to work with for the thicker roof poles.the remaining poles we need to tension now are the remaining canopy polesand we need to place the two auxiliary extra poles in the main unit. we've already tensioned up the middlepole of the canopy.
all that is left to do to outside one's.the last two remaining poles are intermediate roof poles. just hook the poles into the fixon and then clamp them to the front poles. ensuring that the material is behind the poles in the clamps so it protectsthe canvas. then tension up the pole. pushing this pole into the seam. the last remaining pole is the same asthe previous one. when pegging the awning, the first
thing i do is to lay out all the pegs in their right position. a top tip i'll give you here, before youactually start pegging. ensure that all the zips are fully closed, otherwise if you don't do that when youpeg the awning down, and when you get to open the door you findthat it is not pulled all the way down. i am going to start here onthe right hand side of the awning. it makes nodifference
right or left. while i'm at this position iwould do the three pegs that are here. the first one behind the caravan, and the next two as i'm here. ensuring that whenever there is a zip always cross the rubbers over.now that i am at the front. i get hold of the leg, pulling it into to this seam down here.while it is in the right position put a peg through the shoe,
so it can't move. then peg the rubber here at thefront. by doing this now, when i look down theside here i got a perfect straight line for the rest of thepegs. by pushing the canvas away from thepeg you hit missing the canvas with the mallet. exactly the same procedure on the other side. then we move to the front.pull the leg into the seam, peg the shoe into the ground so it can't move.
again giving me a perfect straight linefor the rest of the pegging. if we pull the middle leg in line with the two outside legs, so you got a nicestraight line. these four pegging rubbers are the next.because there are zips here. always crossover. it's very simpleto use just one peg here but i find it better to use two in the middle. always crossing where there is a zip. i'm going to be using this door on this particular awning. for this exercise
as this is the door the pegging rubber by the bottom of the door, will be pegged at a slight angle, like this. ensuring that when the door is opened and the doors roll back they still keepthat panel nice and tight. the last two pegs are the ones on thetriangular wing. that lay next you your caravan. we now lift upthe carpet push back the draught skirt, and peg. now we lay the carpet on top over thetriangular wing.
the same on the other side. laying the carpet back over. now that all the pegging is done that just leaves me now to dress up the awning on the inside. by hanging the curtains and then we are fit to go. you have to put these tiny suitcases onto the curtain track. once they are on you leave them on so you only do the jobonce. the clip itself is already open all we need to do is to place it over the rail on and just
push the two plastic pieces together. now for the next stage, these little wheelsare supplied and these wheels go into the eyeletson the curtains. her you have a choice, which way you would like the print of the curtains. would you like it face outside theawning or on the inside? on this occasion i'm going toput the pattern side facing outside so when looking insidethe awning it looks nice. with the wheel itself you just push into the eyelet of the curtain.
you do this all the way along. you only do this job once. once you decided which way you would like to have the print. all you need to do the next time when erecting the awning is to clipthem into the clips. you just put it onto the actual awning. we go to the clips and just lock them into place. now all the curtains and hooks are on, and all the curtains are hanging up. its just for the curtain tieback to be fitted.
each curtain tieback has got press studs.by the side on each window. there are some tiny black tabs, that are sewn in. we just pushed the press stud in the blacktab, fold the curtain around, one of the most common questioni am asked is how do you hold the curtainsback to the side when you draw the curtains.on the front there is no need to because the front of the awning is nice and straightand the curtains
hang flush with the actual front of the awning. as you can see here. on the side of the awning you can see that the curtains are away from the wall and there is a big gap between. these come standard with all our awnings, a bit like nicker elastic, with a toggle on eachend the toggle goes into the little black tie where the curtain ties are. there's a whole in theblack tie
you push the toggle into that hole moving across the awning to the black tie on theopposite side pushing the toggle into the hole. this now holds the curtains back to the side of the awning. during the day the elastic can actually stay onto theawning. all you need to do, is to bring the curtain from behind the elastic anddraw as normal. as you can see you can leave this in place, you don't have to keep taking it off.
all isabella awnings comesstandard a veranda pole. a veranda pole is a design that goes from leg to legand you can drop the front panel over it to protect it. when we actually drop the front downwith the curtains in it is impossible for these curtains to fall out. they stay in place when you do drop the panel they are not laying on the floor.now to place the veranda pole. again ensuring that the material
is behind to protect the canvas as you can see the curtains are still onthe rail. also leaving the curtains when dropping the panel down you'reprotecting the window away from the pole. one common question i am always asked is what is this pocket for in the back of the awning. that is for the veranda pole for when you want to drop the side panel down. it's the same procedure as you do in thefront. you clamp this to the front leg. and this pocket now is used,
if we take the clamp off, and just use the nut, and the pole into this eyelet. and now we can unzip the panel and it willdrape over the actual veranda pole. now for the door ties. the door ties are not on the awning.the reason we do not put door ties on the awning is because ifyou don't use the door
you don't want a black tie hanging down. we only put these on the door that we are going to use.and on this one is going to be the left hand side door at the front. these black ties clip on with a press stud onto a shorter black tie that's actuallyalready sewn on to the awning. there are two on each door.what is left to do is to open the door roll the door up the door tie then wraps around thedoor to the black tape on the outside of theawning
because i put the pegging point atthe bottom of this one at an angle they still pull the door nice. andmaintain a nice taught front awning. now to roll up the window to reveal the mosquito net on thisbright sunny day its the first thing you'd love to do.same procedure as the door ties click these ties onto the ones already sewn on to the awning. unzip the window from along the bottom and the sides
and then roll up the window.
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